here & now

      Experiencing life after studying abroad is just as important as experiencing life while abroad. Remember that. Do not merely recite it to yourself like an empty hymn whose meaning is beyond you, know it in your heart and believe it to be true. This life, this revised, rejuvenated, re-imagined life after your time abroad is precisely why you left in the first place, remember? You wanted to gain experiences to change your perspective in your every day life. You wanted to see how others lived so that you could appreciate or change your own day to day routine, your rituals, the basic ideas you held about anything and everything. Don't forget that.
      I left behind a perfect life in Cape Town. People I couldn't imagine loving more, scenery that had me lost in my own thoughts for hours, a culture that restored my waning faith in humanity. It was everything I needed at the time I needed it the most. I've been home for almost three weeks now, and honestly, it would be all too easy for me to tell you that I'm miserable. Craving so many things that are absolutely unreachable is exhausting. But, I refuse to give in to that sort of mindset. I refuse to be so entwined in the past, so full of longing and nostalgia that I have no room for appreciation of the present. It might not come naturally, or easily, but, there's just no sense in wasting this time being mentally stuck in Cape Town - especially when where I am is a sort of paradise in itself. Plus, there's a certain energy that flows through you as you immerse yourself in the memories of home. My parents still live in the house that they raised us in, and all of those years come back as a flood of positivity. Memories of laugh attacks, pillow fights that lead to broken arms, obstacle courses in the backyard and endless family meals riddled with the chaos that comes from having five very different people in one family are good for my soul and they remind me why it's not so bad to be home. Why I should be appreciative of where I am, despite what or who I am missing.
     And, there are new reasons to love home, or a new reason I should say. Caden Christopher Gaines was born just a few days after I flew home. On June 16th, after many painful hours of anticipation, Caden arrived and I fell in love instantly. It's unbelievable that not only is my brother CJ married, but now has a child of his very own to love and look after.

So, I might have left my ideal life back in South Africa. But, there is something special about every moment, no matter where you are. The challenge is finding it and truly appreciating it, no matter how awesome the rest of the world is.

Live in the moment,
KG

End of an Era

As most of you know, last month David and two of his brothers took to the road for an incredible journey to Juba, South Sudan. Sick of only hearing negative news about Africa, they began a project called Letters to Juba and will drive through nine countries talking to people - politicians, teachers, artists, bus drivers, activists, gardeners - gathering letters of encouragement, advice, and innovative ideas for development of the world’s newest country. When they arrive in Juba, they will aim to begin 5 grassroots organizations based off of ideas they received on the trip, and they will compile the letters and information into a formal report to show some head hanchos in Juba. It’s important that the leaders of South Sudan look to the past in order to avoid major pitfalls of corruption and poverty that have seized other African nations. 

They’ve just recently made it to Mozambique after major car trouble, but they’re posting inspiring letters and photos of their trip to their facebook page and their website. If you’re African, let them know what you think about their project, the development of South Sudan, or what innovative ideas have helped out your community the most. And if you’re not African, words of support always leave warm fuzzies!

This project has been amazing to follow so far, and even though it meant the end of something special, I see it as a sacrifice to the bigger picture. I had been helping David with the project for so long that when it finally took flight, it was a bittersweet symbol of the end of my own trip. The overwhelming presence of final exams allowed me to avoid feeling anything for several weeks, but now that those are over, reality is all up in my grill. It’s surreal to think that I flew here 11 months ago and it’s already over. Cape Town has changed me fundamentally, structurally, and it’s difficult to think about leaving when coming back seems like a pipe dream. It’s difficult to think about leaving when I feel as though I could lose it all by flying away. It’s just difficult to think about leaving, really. This year, I’ve become the woman I have always wanted to be, and I have never been happier in my life. The prospect of losing that is terrifying.

It is this newfound happiness, however, that propels me to search for my next adventure because, I guess I just love the way the world changes you when you let it. I came here blank and empty, and I’m leaving whole, full of the ineffableness of traveling, of places and cultures that cannot be summed up neatly. Full of the images that no cameras captured and the sounds that no one listens to. 

The last few days have been a circus of last meals, final tours, goodbyes and see you later’s. Some of us are lucky enough to see these faces back on our home campuses, while others might only be remembered through photos and annual nostalgia. But either way, we all know that Cape Town has left us with more than memories. And the things that we felt as we stood here together will be the invisible threads that tie us to each other for the rest of our lives. 

Live happily,

KG

bay day

Holly's sister was visiting for a while, so we had a good excuse to take a break from the books, thank you, rebellious teen Jesus with a patchy beard (that's how I imagine him). One day consisted of a day at the Water Front and an impromptu sailing trip just before sunset with a one legged captain and a couple of bottles of wine. The little cruise turned into drunken sailing lessons (completely open water - don't worry Ma) and I don't think it could have been better if it was raining Butterfingers and burritos. That's saying something, people! There are tons of people that will take you on a harbor cruise for practically nothing, and if you go at the right time (like us), you have the boat all to yourselves! After that, we chowed down at a Scottish pub called Mitchell's which has unbelievable honey beer, and then we headed home!

The V&A Water Front is supposed to be modeled after SF's Wharf, but besides the tourist priced food and the fleet of boats, I didn't notice many similarities. However, seeing as how it's one of the biggest tourist destinations in the city, I figured I had to check it out at least once, and I'm really glad I did. With the sun kissing your face and that salt water air, nothing's that bad, right?

One final, one week and one 30+ hour flight until I'm home! Chea!

Live wisely,

KG

Groovy Routes

I am once again posting about something in the not so distant past, but better late than never, right? Last month, I finally had the chance to see the lovely Garden Route that I had heard so much about. The Garden Route is comprised of a hand full of adorable little seaside towns (think Laguna Beach or Santa Cruz) with the furthest point being about 10 hours away. So, after a sick Avicii concert to kick off our break, Karina, Holly, Shannon and I loaded up our gear and spent Spring Break on the coast!

 Everyone does the Garden Route their own way, but if you ever find yourself out that way, let me give you a few hints..

Say YES to...

1. Staying at Wild Spirit Backpackers in the Crags (pictures 2,3, and 4). If you have a bit of vagabond gypsy in you, you'll love the organic breakfasts, amazing views, roaming family pets and general vibe of this hippy haven. Make sure to spend a day at the lagoon in Nature's Valley and hike Pigs Head for a 360 view of the area!

2. Bungee Jumping in Tsitsikamma! At 216 meters (708 feet) it's the world's tallest commercial bungee. I'm desperately afraid of heights, but it was really fun to watch the crazies fly and be around all the adrenaline.

3. Making a trip to Jeffery's Bay (pictures 5 and 6). It's a world renown surf spot so there are really cheap lessons everywhere. That also means that it's got quite the population of fun kids that want to surf by day and get ultra rowdy by night. We stayed at Island Vibe the first two nights, which was great because it's known for its parties and locals hang out there all the time. But, for our third night, we opted for a cleaner, quieter place called Hard Rock Backpackers which was also awesome with an insanely friendly owner.

4. Going to Addo (pictures 7, 8 and 9)! Addo National Elephant Park was by far my favorite part of the trip, and a highlight of my entire year. It was amazing to see the freedom that the animals and the visitors had, as there are no gates, fences, anything between you and the animals. We were lucky enough to see 3 out of the 12 lions in the whole park, and although we didn't see as many elephants as other trips I've heard of, the hand full that we saw were up close and personal. Quite honestly the most humbling experience I've had in a long time.

5. Staying at the Fairy Knowe. This was our last stop before Cape Town, and even though it was raining and miserable out, I loved this place. It was a great deal for a private, 4 person room, they have 2 friendly stafford bull terriers that wanted to play all day, and it was in the midst of the beautiful town of Wildnerness which hosts quaint shops, amazing eateries and hiking/kayaking adventures of all kinds.

Say NO to...

1. the drive to Oudtshoorn. Now, maybe I'm a bit biased because our experience was not great, but the drive to Oudtshoorn did not seem worth the time. It's home to the Cango Wild Life Ranch and the Cango Caves, which both seemed pretty cool at first. But, in all actuality, the ranch was a hardly glorified zoo and we didn't even make it to the caves because they were even farther out of the way. However, I have heard that it's basically just a guided tour and it's not natural or adventurous at all. 

2. Stopping in Sedgefield. It's just past Wilderness, and it's where we spent our first night. The backpackers was okay, but the town had nothing else to offer besides being on the beach. I would suggest either stopping in Wilderness or powering through to the Crags which is only about an hour more!

3. Saying no! My biggest lesson from this trip is to say yes! We didn't do a few activities because we thought something better would come along that we would rather do. But, by the end of our trip, we felt like we hadn't done much at all. Of course we had fun, saw amazing sights and enjoyed the trip, but we didn't do much. Raft, hike, zip line - just do!

Live positively,

KG

Sunday Funday

My sincerest apologies for the lack of updates. We are in the midst of final exams, and UCT is a force to be reckoned with. I think it's only fair that I give a certain warning to anyone coming to study abroad here... University of Cape Town is not for the faint of heart! If you're someone who needs your advisor to hold your hand, and your professor to feed you exam answers - this is not the place for you! If you're looking for an easy semester of non-major art and wine tasting - this is not the place for you! But, if you want to truly immerse yourself in interesting classes that you would never be able to attend at USF or other American Universities, with prestigious professors, challenging discourses, and the opportunity to mature as a student and person...come on over. I can't honestly say that my two semesters at UCT have been easy. But, they've been interesting as hell, and I've learned a lot. There are certain attributes of a small university that I love, but that don't really prepare you for real life, like the personal care you receive from the administration and professors, or the strings that are pulled and deadlines overlooked by people that like you. But UCT is brutal in that sense. Most people don't forgive missed deadlines, and the administration is actually annoyed if you ask too many questions. And while it took some getting used to, I find myself feeling like a better student and more mature person for it. I used to tell everyone that I hated UCT, but in the final few weeks of my time here, I've come to regret ever saying that. It's just a real school that has forced me to be responsible and professional. In a way, UCT has given me a lot of tough love that I didn't want, but I would do it all over again. Anyway...

It's been a few months since this day took place, but I'd like to write about it anyway because for anyone looking to come study, live, work, retire or simple visit, this was the quintessential Cape Town Sunday.

We rounded up the gang in the Bus O' Fun and headed out to Gugulethu, the township that hosts the famous Mzoli's braai. I know I've posted about this before, but it was almost a year ago, so we had to go again. Mzoli's is a wonderland of dancing mixed with a shmorgishborg of meat and beer topped with extreme heat. It's the one place that people from any walk of life, socioeconomic background and color come to mesh. I don't know what they put on their meat, but it's the most deliciouso stuff around, so this place is absolutely a must for anyone in the area. And even those who aren't. Make a trip, it's worth it.

From there, we continued on to another Cape Townian favorite: Summer concerts in Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. It brought me back to summer days when I would ride my bike to the concerts in the park that Tustin put on... except it's 10 times as big. Hundreds of families brought full on picnics, bottles of wine and their dancin shoes because the band performing that night was none other than our Cape Town claim to fame: GOLDFISH! I've seen them a couple of times, but the show is always so groovy you can't help but dance the entire time. Amama (David's grandma that stayed with us for just over a month) was rockin out alongside Karina, Holly and some other good friends... so, to say that it was a successfully stellar night would be a complete understatement. It was the first, and sadly only, summer concert that we attended (Kirstenbosch hosts one every Sunday for a few months), but it was a perfect evening with friends and family and I wish we could have gone back for more (damn studying abroad).

Truly, the perfect Sunday.


Live bravely,
KG

We'll always have Tofo...

I'm not quite sure why it's taken me so long to write about the final and favorite leg of my backpacking trip. Maybe it's because with school started, I don't have as much time to write and I knew this one would be a doozy.. maybe it's because I wasn't quite sure how to fit two amazing weeks of my life into a short narrative. Not that I think I can now, but at least I feel like trying.

________

After a short stop in Johannesburg to get visas, say hi to our friend Simon, and reunite with Jozi, we took a late night bus to Maputo, Mozambique. This is the part of the trip we had all been waiting for, the magnet that pulled us so far east. The tropical beaches and friendly people of Mozambique. So, it was well worth it when we had the bus ride from hell. 12 hours, 3 sweaty men, 1 completely disorganized border crossing and a broken luggage trailer later, we reached the gritty streets of Maputo, the Mozambican capitol - nearly without said luggage (the thing broke off, went rogue and smashed into some cop car...bad ass. T.I.A., mothalova).

Maputo, Maputo Providence, Mozambique

Our time in Maputo was nothing to write home about. We weren't there for long and while we were, the weather was less than desirable. So two days after our arrival, we woke up at 5am to take a bus at 5:30 and we left around 8.

We took a tiny, rickety old bus stuffed full of Mozambicans, but 9 hours later, we were in paradise....

Tofo, Inhabane Providence, Mozambique

Everything you've ever imagined a tropical paradise to be, Tofo is. Empty, white beaches. Warm, turquoise water. Banana shakes and miles of smiling faces. Tofo was heaven on earth. Our days consisted of swimming, sunning, drinking smoothies, swimming, talking to locals, swimming, reading, swimming and sunning. I think I covered it all. We were there for a week and a half - longer than we had anticipated, but we just couldn't pry ourselves away. Someday we will return for John Tomato and Elvis.

The locals we met in the market, along with the staff at our backpackers (it was Fatima's if anyone is interested... by far the best one in town. Beach access, super chilled communal area and the best smoothies you could ask for. Not to mention, it goes off), were some of the friendliest people I have encountered. The tour books said they were known for being nice, but damn. Although it's one of the poorest countries in the world, people are just straight happy, generous and helpful. It was a sort of "the less you have, the less you have to worry about" vibe and I really dug it. Overall, one of the best weeks of my entire life. I could have set up shop and stayed for a while. However, our flight out was booked through Vilankulos, a tiny town just a few hours north, so we had to move on.

Vilankulos, Inhabane Providence, Mozambique

At this point in our trip, we were all pretty exhausted. We had taken subways, public busses, greyhounds, trains, horses, mini busses, taxis, and boats to get to that point, and we were ready to melt into hammocks all over the place. For this last leg of the trip, we just chilled. To the max. But one day stood out, and I still wish I could replay it every weekend or so. We joined a group of people at our backpackers - some couples and an Israeli dude named Ron that we had seen a couple different times on our trip - and went on a day tour of the island of Magaruque in the breathtaking Bazaruto Archipelago. After an hour long sail over the crystal clear water and spanning sand bars, we anchored off of a long reef and went snorkeling. Unfortunately, the tide changed just as we got there, so it lowered visibility, but it was still a perfectly lovely afternoon. After a few hours of swimming, the crew made us fresh crab and fish (that they caught while we were swimming) and we chilled under palm trees on the sand. Then we walked around the island, catching little crabs as they washed into our feet until we finally met back up with the dhow and watched the sun set as we sailed home. Ideal? I think so. Unreal.

Since the shallow area between main land and the island was dotted with sandbars, there were also several sick days when the tide pulled out 100 yards or so, leaving boats stranded.

And then, we were done.

We had come a long way in that month, and it was time to fly home. Although I was ready to have my bed, shower and boyfriend, I couldn't stop watching out the window of the plane, hoping I wouldn't have to leave just yet. I'm not sure what I miss more - the water, the people, or the delicious 50 cent mangos, but I know it won't be my last time there. Mozambique humbled me in the way traveling is supposed to. More so than in any area I had seen before, these people with virtually nothing were so unexplainably happy. It makes you think about the things that get you down when you have no real problems. Does it take having nothing to be truly happy? Should we cast away all material possessions to live this enlightened, blissful life? ....That's a bit drastic. But, next time I'm letting "First World Problems" get me down, I'll rethink it and remind myself how lucky I am to live the life I live.

Live globally,

KG

Love is Love

Last weekend, PASSOP participated in the Cape Town Gay Pride parade! Cape Town is the hub of the gay community all across Africa, as most African countries are extremely homophobic. It was so amazing to see such support and love on the streets of Green Point. Gays, lesbians, transgenders, bisexuals, straights - everything was represented and loved that day; the energy was infectious. However, coming from San Francisco, the festivities were bittersweet for me. I mean, the gay community in SF is not only the most vibrant part of the city, but it's a world wide symbol of unconditional, limitless love. And here I was, at this parade of maybe twenty cars in what is the largest show of gay pride in an entire continent. Streets weren't even blocked off, we rode through with the flow of traffic. And I'm not saying this to knock the parade or the event, it was beautiful and inspiring; I just think it's a little sad - for all of the diverse forms of love in Cape Town and Africa as a whole. Whenever I told someone I was a student in San Francisco, they gushed over the city and their dreams to someday move there and find true freedom and equality. But I just kept thinking that I hope that Africa some day becomes a place that will be just as loving so they don't have to leave.

Live gayly,

KG

A Plea for Help

Whenever I’m in the office, I’m likely to hear someone’s horrific story of how they got to South Africa or how they were treated once they got here and sadly, it is all too common. I hate to say it, but I've become a bit numbed to the tragedies of refugees. But, a few weeks ago, I met a family that truly shook me. As soon as I heard their story, I knew that I needed to help them as much as I possibly could in any way that I could. And I’m desperate to do so.

Lawrence and Richard Roti are 17 and 13, respectively. They are the two wonderful Zimbabwean boys that I met today. They are both in wheelchairs and unable to obtain the proper care or education they need. They haven’t even been medically diagnosed, but Lawrence is thought to have Spinal Muscular Dystrophy while Richard might suffers from Cerebral Palsy.

Here are the brothers with our volunteer Eunice, their Uncle Michael and their adorable cousin Angelina. Richard is on the left and Lawrence is on the right.

Originally, they boys lived in an extremely impoverished rural part of Zimbabwe called Guruve. They lived there with their parents until their father died and their mother became overwhelmingly weak with HIV related illnesses. They were then adopted by their uncle’s, Michael and Fidellis, who decided it was best to move them to South Africa in January of last year. Since then, they have lived in a township called Phillipi just outside of Cape Town with their uncles, both unemployed. Soon after they settled down, Michael and Fidellis were attacked on the street by a man with a screwdriver. Fidellis did not survive. The attack seemed random at first, but they began to realize that their neighbors were jealous of the aid they were receiving from The Chaeli Campaign, an NGO that specializes in helping disabled children. Although they have some idea who the attacker was, no one has involved the police for fear of being targeted further.

Now, Lawrence and Richard are left in the care of Michael and his wife Sibongile, who are both unemployed and must care for their own daughter, as well. The boys are not attending school or physiotherapy and they are deteriorating. On top of that, they live in fear of another attack. PASSOP and The Chaeli Campaign are doing all that we can, but we are grassroots organizations with small budgets and can’t sustain them for very much longer. Michael has attempted suicide due to the stress and helplessness he has felt over the last few months. We are terrified that if we don't get more help soon, he will try again, leaving the boys on their own.

When I met these boys and their family, my heart ached. Handicapped people are often overlooked or ignored in Africa, many times they are even believed to be a curse on the family or a warning from God. But they're just sweet, innocent little boys with a downtrodden, hopeless gaze stuck in their eyes. Through very broken English, they told me that all they wanted was a toy to play with sometimes. Richard wants a tank and Lawrence wants a race car, but I want to give them so much more.

If you have any idea how we can help these boys or if you are in the position to personally donate money, clothes, toys, anything at all - it would be appreciated beyond explanation. Tell your parents, your friends, your church, your classmates, your co-workers. Tell the people you meet on the bus or the woman who serves you coffee this evening. Please. We are in an incredible position to improve the quality of these boys lives, and relieve some of the stress their family is dealing with. Every single bit of help, no matter how small it may seem to you, will drastically improve their situation. They have seen so many days of pain and suffering, I just want to give them a little hope. This is not an informercial with a weepy song behind images of distended bellies and kids rummaging in landfills, this is your friend asking you to help a family in desperate need. I urge - no actually - I beg you to reach out and help PASSOP in our efforts. Contact me or PASSOP for details on how to donate to the Roti brothers, I can guarantee that any donation will go towards the immediate needs of the boys and their family.

Live generously,

KG

Before I give the details of the final leg of my backpacking journey through space, time and Africa, I give you this...

On Top

There's never a boring minute in the Mother City, that I can assure you. Dramatic, yet accessible scenery is at our fingertips everywhere we turn and it never gets old. So, last weekend David and I finally checked one incredible hike off of our To Do list. We took advantage of the monstrous mountain range in our backyard and hiked to the top of Chapman's Peak and watched an incredible sunset. But, we weren't done yet. We brought along sleeping bags and a tent and made a night of it. The sunset alone was so freaking sick, just a huge water colored sky with nothing obstructing our view. As it faded, we turned our attention to the dazzling lights of Haut Bay and man, did I feel small. There's something about watching thousands of people's lives go on beneath you to remind you of your tiny but unique place in the world. Not to mention the fact that the two of us were the only souls around for miles. I mean, sleeping on the mountain is not exactly legal, but it was definitely a risk worth it's consequences.

I will admit that I was somewhat scared during the night, but I am just that kind of paranoid, "this is how horror movies start" person, so it was definitely just me. And the view the next morning... DAMN. Even with my sleepy little eyes, it was breathtaking. I had never seen the ocean so calm or the misty clouds spread so thin over Noordhoek. Absolutely amazing - we win!

Live spaciously,

KG

The Pro's and Con's of Studying Abroad

Now, it’s come to my attention that this blog is being utilized as a reference point for students looking to study in South Africa. Sick. I’m flattered, actually. But, up until now, this blog has mostly been for show and tell and to put the minds and hearts of moms back home at ease. I haven’t always written about the things I don’t like, because I don’t like focusing on negativity. However, this post is a bit different. This post comes at a point where I’ve been here for nearly 7 months. A point in my stay where I feel as though I’ve experienced the majority of the highs and lows I’m going to feel. So I thought I’d share them with you. This is in no way an exhaustive list; these are just some of an American girl’s pros and cons of studying abroad.

Pros

1. You learn things. Obviously, the biggest plus is getting to live in a new country and experience their culture. If you’re considering studying abroad, I don’t really have to explain to you why this is so damn cool. Exploring the world will make you a better person. Knowing about the world outside of America helps you in life. These are all obvious positive effects. What you might not realize is that living in a new country helps you see your own mother ship in a different (and if you’re American, most likely more accurate) light. I’ve come to understand that generally, Americans’ knowledge of the world outside their boarders is grossly lacking. When my boyfriends’ 14 year old brother could name more countries on a world map than me, I knew we were in trouble. And I’m not even the stupidest one around! So living here has definitely pushed me to take up an interest in the rest of the world. Weird concept, huh? I appreciate things at home that I never thought twice about like good customer service and the general freedom our youth has to choose their own path in life. Things like widespread higher education and a trustworthy police force. In stark contrast, there are things about home that now look horrible through my new eyes: our outrageous university tuition, the way we ignorantly waste our natural resources and our obnoxious, over the top patriotism. Among MANY other things. Oddly enough, there are other ways - better ways - of doing things than the American Way. So, you learn. About the country you’re in and the one you’re from and what they both mean to you and the world.
2. You meet people. One of the things that I love best about studying here is that I can truthfully tell you that yesterday an Egyptian guy who grew up in Sudan helped me on the computer. I work with people from Zimbabwe and the Democratic Republic of Congo. I live with Norwegians. I’ve learned just as much from having these culturally diverse people in my life as I have from simply moving here. I mean, it’s pretty sick to think that I will probably get hooked up with free lodging whenever I’m anywhere in Europe, but that’s just the start. I had never met a person that was fully German (not just the American version of European mutts) and now I’m in love with one. And being in love with someone from another culture is just completely fun and lovely. So even though I can’t tell if he’s making fun of me with his brother (which he probably is), I’ve learned new Christmas traditions and acquired a love for Weiss beer, although that wasn’t difficult to do. I like to think that I at least try to enrich my own life with bits and pieces of the cultures I’ve come into contact with. And I think it’s made me a better, more well rounded person. Now, I don’t just care about the politics or events happening in the States, I think about Holland, Norway, Germany and Belgium, too, because I love people that are effected by things happening there. And when you begin to care about specific people all over the world, it tends to spread out to all the others
3. You realize how small you are. Are you still super depressed because you ruined that Marc Jacobs top? Is your head buried in a pint of Cherry Garcia because your ex BFF hooked up with your ex BF at a party that you totally weren’t invited to? If things of this magnitude are getting you down - TRAVEL. I swear to you, the shit that seemed so all encompassing and life shattering will indeed cease to matter once you set foot in another country, especially one that is poorer than your own. South Africa is no longer a third world country, but it’s not in top form just yet. So all of my suburban white girl problems faded fast when I got here. I want to see you complaining that Daddy doesn’t give you a big enough monthly allowance when the person walking in front of you makes 140 rand (approximately 18USD) for thoroughly cleaning houses all day. I want to see you cry that What’s His Face is the only one in the world for you when you are suddenly surrounded by millions of new people whose existence never crossed your mind. And if South Africa alone is filled with amazing looking people (which it is), imagine what the rest of the world has to offer. However, while these shallow grievances are definitely fixed when you become an imported good, deeper things - like “the bigger picture” - become more clear, as well. You don’t just forget about your problems because you’re thousands of miles away from them, you understand them in a new way and more likely than not, will figure out that they’re miniscule in a world so large that you just won’t care anymore. So basically traveling is like LSD, but legal.

Cons:

1. Reality bites. When you’re in the good ole US of A, you don’t hear much about it’s flaws. We seem to think we’re perfect. Well, I’m not a treasonous terrorist or anything, but wake up America! We’re not really the shit. Don’t get me wrong, I love being American just like the next girl, and I really am proud of where I come from, but we just have to realize that other countries have it figured out better than we do. However, all too frequently, people feel as though they should fill me on all of our flaws. We can’t cook and we’re hillbillies. We're all fat and lazy, yet superficial. Trust me, I’ve heard an insane range of insults. And it’s not the stereotypes that bother me, I blame our media and the television/movies we put out that negatively reflect our values and image. Besides, we all secretly believe in certain stereotypes. Some of them are made for a reason. But since when is it appropriate to revert to an infantile sense of social manners and bring these stereotypes to the forefront of a conversation? Time and time again, people I’ve encountered have jovially commented on the average American weight, our sometimes mind numbing television programs and various other embarrassing tidbits in ignorantly confident banter. When I first came here, I couldn't really handle it. I got quite upset and took it as a personal attack. But now, I’m not offended because I know that they aren’t talking about me or my family, I’m not even offended on behalf of my country, because I know that many of those stereotypes are sadly true, I’m offended because they’re being rude. I don't mind openly debating criticisms and opinions, but not when they're based on blind stereotypes. Is it appropriate to tell a Chinese person to stop polluting? Is it socially acceptable to approach an Irishmen and ask him how much he's had to drink today? I didn't think so.
2. You get home sick. Now, this might seem really obvious, but let me give it to you another way: sometimes, you’re sick of everything being so different. I’ve had the (not so) occasional craving for Butterfingers and I’ve definitely missed driving my Jeep, but none of that has been too overwhelming and I constantly appreciate my surroundings. But, sometimes, when things aren’t going well or I’m tired or annoyed or lost, I get sick of it all. Exhausted. Everything is foreign, even things I’ve adapted to by now are still not what I knew for 20 years. And while those moments only happen once in a while, what happens all the time is the craving for my friends and family. Not necessarily the familiarity of them, but the desire to share my experiences with them. You’ll find that when you thrust yourself into the cattle herd they call Studying Abroad, you instantaneously become best friends with whatever livestock you meet on the plane/room with/study with despite the fact that you don’t really know them. You’re sharing huge moments of your life with people that don’t really mean that much to you. There are heavy moral issues I’ve come across in South Africa that I wish I could talk through with my dad. I would kill to see my mom’s face light up at the sights and scenery. And not a day goes by that I don’t wish my friends could meet this absolutely perfect guy that I’ve fallen madly in love with. Problem is, it’s extremely difficult to explain what an entire country and culture and relationship is like through hollow words and flattened pictures. And sometimes it feels like no one will ever understand my experience.
3. Eventually, you leave. You know it from the beginning: your time in South Africa, Spain, Brazil or wherever you choose to study is limited and whether it’s a semester or a year, it never seems like long enough. I guess I’m not the expert on this, I still have 5 months until I go back to the States. But, if the next 5 months go by as fast as the last 7 have (and I’m assuming they’ll go by even faster), I’m screwed. After the initial cultural adjustments, after you begin to think in their currency instead of converting everything to dollars, after you stop getting lost every day, after you pick up new favorite foods and make friends with locals, after you find your favorite spot to read or look out onto the city, after you feel like you live there, you leave. Chances are high that you won’t come back for a long time. It’s not as easy as going back to your parents house, and I imagine that it won’t feel the same. When you were a kid living under their roof, you didn’t realize the simplicity and beauty of it all. When you’re abroad, you do. So the difficulty of leaving is at the forefront of your mind the entire time you’re packing your bags. The return to real life is an adjustment. You are no longer on extended vacation. You must continue with internships, part time jobs and figuring your life out. You must take the next steps into adulthood. You must grow up. You might not like home as much. You might gain an insatiable itch to travel and being in the conservative constraints of American life might make you want to turn your skin inside out. You might not ever be satisfied with being home. I spoke to plenty of my fellow American students who swore that this experience had pushed them to search for employment, education and life outside of the states. Now, sure, most of them are full of shit and will revert back to their normal lives after a few months of being home. But, some of them, some of you, won’t be able to. And it’s a spell we cast upon ourselves.

Of course there are other negative and positive side effects that I did not mention. Smaller, bigger or specific to each person, these effects were not included for various reasons. I wrote what I wrote because, I guess they are things that I wished someone would have told me. Most people I spoke to who had just come back from their semesters just said it was fun. It was fun, they partied, they saw the sights. But no one prepared me for the extreme transformation I was about to get myself into. So, if you’re reading this and you’re planning on going abroad - do it. It really, truly will change your life.

Live abroad,

KG

the Kingdom

The Wild Coast was slowly fading into the white lines painted on the road behind us, and we were driving towards the next leg of our trip: Drakensberg and Lesotho. After some harrowing car trouble in a huge storm that left us stranded 60km outside of Durban in the rain, we made it.. just a little worse for wear. We had to say a temporary tootaloo to Jozi so that she could see to it that her car was repaired, and Lieke (from Holland), Lauren (from Massachusetts ), Becca (from Connecticut) and I were off to the mystical berg.

Drakensberg, Kwazulu-Natal, South Africa

The Drakensberg is an area known for it's natural and unaffected beauty and is comparable to Yosemite. It's green as can be, with mountains scattered here and there; inhabited only by farmers, their help and their herds. We stayed at Khotso Backpackers and Horse Trails, a family run ranch that wrapped us in it's arms and didn't let go. Bad weather kept us inside for the better part of a few days, but it wasn't even the slightest bit miserable. Their staff/family was genuinely welcoming and kind - we were feeling at home in no time. When we could get out and explore, it was incredible. We hiked around the farm a bit and found some swimming holes and waterfalls - we even rode in the back of their pick up truck into town to get groceries. Super rugged. But the reason for our stay was clear: getting into Lesotho.

Sehlabathebe National Park, Qacha'snek, Lesotho

For those of you who do not know, the Kingdom of Lesotho is the tiny little landlocked country that exists inside the eastern side of South Africa. It doesn't harbor a whole lot of tourism and it lacks paved roads and much more civilization than simple villages and towns. But the draw is obvious: it has some of the most unreal, untouched mountains in South Africa. So, we packed up some horses and rode on in. That's right, we got real down and dirty and did the trip on horseback. Khotso sent us with their main man Andreas on a two day trip through Bushman's Nek and back.

From the get go, we were a giggly mess just trying to stay on our horses for long enough to enjoy the view. My horse, Goofy, was the smallest of the crew, with big, googly eyes, a major fear of heights and a general distaste for running...fitting. The little coward tried to turn around mid-river and when she realized she couldn't, we just chilled there for a while.The rest of the horses were just as silly as us and proved to be the greatest source of entertainment of the whole trip. We rode for a few hours the first day, slowly crawling up the side of the most majestic mountains I have ever seen until we were trotting along in SNOW. Uh huh, snow in Africa! We passed by old stone huts made from hunters centuries ago, it was so neat to see how well they had been preserved, and not even by any government decree or sanction. Basotho just respect their past enough not to mess with what's left of it. I cannot tell you how many times I gasped at the views - it was truly a kingdom.

By the time we got to the tiny village of Sehlabathebe, the sun was low and we were aching to get off of those horses. We watched the community close down for the evening as herds of various animals rushed by our lodge, kids finished up playing their games (mostly playing Jacks but with rocks), and people wandered inside for dinner, but we managed to talk to some welcoming locals through very broken english, as they don't see many white people at all. As everyone slowly went in for the night, we followed suit and made dinner with our guide. We talked about apartheid, racism and all sorts of issues that faced him and the land he loves - he was such a fascinating guy. And the night sky in Lesotho... wow. The most brilliant thing I've ever seen. but eventually we had to sleep so we pushed a few of the beds together and made one MASSIVE Slumber Party Xtreme Dream House Fun Time Cuddle Pile bed. Probably the highlight of my life. Just sayin. Sleeping all scrunched up to my little Dutch Princess was a dream come true.

In the morning, I wanted to die. I felt like my legs were going to fall off and my back would break in half. But when the going gets tough, the tough pry their legs apart and get back on the horse. Despite wanting to do self amputation right then and there, we rode on towards the famous Bushman cave paintings! These were made by the San bushmen and depicted the animals that they hunted back in the day. Again, it was fully preserved without any gates, glass or gadgets. Just the honor system - which is sick. After snapping a few pictures, we got back on the horses and trekked home. But it wasn't that simple, really. Since we had done so well the day before, Andreas had faith in our riding abilities. How silly of him! He took us back on the "Advanced Rout" and nearly killed us. Let's just say, when you combine one huge and skittish horse that is afraid of heights with one overly emotional little girl who is equally as scared of heights and one horrendously narrow path on the side of a cliff, bad things almost happen.

Anyway, no matter how scary the last few hours of the ride were, it was the trip of a lifetime and it was exhilarating to face my fears. I'll never forget the palatial skies of Lesotho or the people that live beneath them.

Live regally,

KG

Lovely Pair of Pears

The men in this house love sweets and are completely spoiled in that department by their sister, Stella. So, I'm always trying to keep up by finding easy recipes that even I can't mess up. Problem is, most of the easiest desserts happen to be the fattiest. Globs of butter, loads of chocolate. Well, problem solved.

While browsing the lovely FoodGawker, I came upon a true gem. Stuffed. Baked. Pears. Delicious, healthy and really, really easy. I followed this yummy recipe from Honey&Jam and tweaked it just a bit by adding diced pear to the stuffing instead of almonds which we didn't have on hand.

Basically, you halve and seed the pears, make an oat/cinnamon/brown sugar mixture and spoon the mixture into the center! After 30 minutes in the oven, drizzle honey et voila! We served ours with vanilla ice cream because... well, because David's addicted. Anyway, it was the perfect, light dessert I've been searching for. We ate it after our home made pizza that I wanted to snap a picture of but who am I kidding, that stuff was inhaled.

Live fruitfully,

KG

west coast weekend

Since last week was David's first week back at work, we had to make the weekend a stellar one. It stared out at Hudson's Burger Joint on Kloof Street. TOP NOTCH! I had a mouth watering vegetarian burger with a chickpea and lentil patty topped with goats cheese and caramelized onion. Wow, just wow. Everyone else was ecstatic with their real burgers, too. We were with a huge group and were easily accommodated, and the whole place had a really nice vibe. Plus it was totally affordable. Definitely recommend it. Later, we hit a few bars on Long Street but retired pretty early because we had big plans for the next day...

A year ago, if you would have told me that I'd be camping on a beach in Africa with four German guys, I probably would have been creeped out. However, that's exactly what I did last weekend. The boys have some childhood friends visiting, so we packed up the surfmobile and headed up the west coast in search of waves. We hit Elands Bay the first day, which is a super long, pretty well known left break; the boys got a few good ones while I snapped some pictures and played with some puppies on shore. A couple kilometers down the road, we found a perfectly sheltered spot to roll out our sleeping bags between some dunes where we had a braai, watched a watercolor sunset and fell asleep beneath the stars. Ideal.

The next day brought more surfing, but none was very successful. So we took the show on home and decided to get a good rest before hitting Camps Bay for a night of mayhem. Goldfish, a sick jazzy/electro group that is definitely one of South Africa's most popular acts, plays a show every Sunday night of the summer for around 15$. They are unreal! So we put on our dancin shoes and boogied away. The night was warm and breezy and Camps Bay is the Malibu of Cape Town, so it felt like a California summer night and all was right in the world.

Live cheerfully,

KG

Et voila, our Christmas...

Christmas in Cape Town from katy gaines on Vimeo.
Live merrily,
KG

Most of the family has left the Noordhoek nest and we have all mellowed out considerably. I've been making an effort to get downtown more often. It reminds me so much of San Francisco and it's nice to get the pace of life kicked up a notch from sleepy Noordhoek. So we all went shopping on Long Street and then took a lovely trip to Constantia vineyards. It's a huge property that is open to the public for picnics, lunch at their cafe or just laying on their perfectly green, manicured lawns, as we did for the afternoon.

The next day was quite a different energy, as we decided to climb Table Mountain (one of the wonders of the world!!!) after breakfast. We drove to Kirstenbosch gardens to take the Skeleton Gorge trail and after almost 2 hours of trekking through the most verdant, overgrown forest and up a trickling freshwater stream, we made it to an amazing view over part of Cape Town. After we reached the top of the trail, we continued on to a reservoir for a quick swim. Due to excess iron, the water was eerily red, but completely fresh and clean. It was so strange, but the cooldown was much needed.

I definitely suggest the hike to anyone looking for a fun half-day adventure!

Live Freshly,

KG